Saturday, September 1, 2012

Travel: Uniquely Santorini

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain
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It was an unplanned vacation. We were doing our usual groceries one Saturday and there it was on the receipt - 50% off for a Santorini/Mykonos holidays for the first 50 callers.

See, I've always wanted to 'experience' Santorini after watching the movie The Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants 2. If there was love at first sight with a place, this was it! I don't know, maybe it was the spectacular landscapes -deep blue sea, amazing sunset, breathtaking views-  featured in the film that caught my interest.

According to Wikipedia, Santorini, classically Thera, and officially Thira, is essentially what remains after an enormous volcanic explosion, which happened  some 3600 years ago, destroyed the earliest settlements (the Minoans) on a formerly single island, and created the current geological caldera.  Another popular theory holds that the Thera eruption is the source of the legend of Atlantis. So, stunning view with colorful history - what else would you want???


Needless to say, I called the Billa Reisen hotline and booked the tour.

Finally, the much awaited day came and off we went on a 05:15 chartered Austrian flight to the island. We were booked at the Hotel Zephyros, a nice 3-star hotel on the Kamari side of the island.

First impression? Well, I was not ecstatic or anything. My senses simply feasted on the uniqueness of the sights around me.

Then the VEE-CAY-SHON began....

Lazing around Kamari beach with Christian Grey....
Read a book at Black Beach. Our hotel was, like, 5-minute walk from the Black Beach of Kamari.  So, naturally, first on the agenda was a day at the beach. It was a relaxing day spent with Christian Grey. :)

Most of Santorini's beaches have black sand  because of the volcanic eruption and probably, a bit inconvenient because of the pebbles. However, the emerald blue, clear waters totally made up for this.

Interesting fact: the official name of Kamari is "Episkopi Gonia" and took its name from the fascinating church of Panaghia Episkopi which was built in 1100. Oh wow!!

Trying here to survive the 1.5 km trek to the top...
Volcano Tour - Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni.  If there is one tour you should not miss while in Santorini, it would be this one. The first stop is Nea Kameni in the center of the caldera. Here you have to walk (no, climb..) the 1.5 km distance on a gravel path to reach the 130m-high volcanic crater. My GOD!! It was soooo physically challenging - its hot, its rough and its far!! All three things I shun away from! Halfway up, I almost gave up. But as they say, no pain, no gain! So, after imploring the help of all the volcanic gods and goddesses,  I reached the top (with the hubby patiently prodding)!Was it worth it? Well, for me to know, you to find out...:)

The Saint Nikolas Cathedral serving its lone inhabitant
Next, is Palea Kameni, the "old burnt island" where visitors may swim in a hot spring. Of course, the brochure won't tell you that, to enjoy the hot spring, you have to jump off the boat and swim towards it and then swim back to the boat in, like, 10m deep waters. Now, for non-swimmers like me that poses a problem, don't you think? Nonetheless, the 30-minute stop was interesting as you get to see the abode of the lone inhabitant of the island. His goats might just make their appearance too.

Now off to Thirasia, an island in close proximity to Santorini with only about 150 inhabitants. We had the choice of swimming on the island's beach with its crystalline waters or going up the main village, Manolas, which maybe reached by a flight of 250 steps from the port or by riding on a donkey.After the harrowing Nea Kameni climb, the choice was clear. NO. MORE.CLIMBING..... and imagine the poor donkey with me as passenger. :)

Look at that winding path  from the port to the village of  Manolas



Sunset at Oia.  Not to be missed! The village itself is simply gorgeous - with the typical whitewashed houses and blue-domed cathedrals. But the sunset - the sunset is  absoultely breathtaking (and oh so romantic..)! My camera did not do justice to it. Just be prepared for the throng of people (and I mean, throng!!) wanting to share the experience!

Breathtaking Oia sunset...
 Ancient Thira. The next morning, all I wanted to do was to stay in bed and rest the weary me. But of course, the dear hubby was so restless 'oscillating' inside the room (this guy should know what 'relax' mean:!). Arrggghhh!!! Somebody suggested Ancient Thira - said its near, done in 1 hour, mini-bus takes you there...sounds like a good deal! So, off we went!

Next time I see that somebody, remind me to give him a good tongue-lashing!! Double arrrggghhh! It was not only thousand steps to the top from where the mini-bus takes you - some paths are so narrow and on your other side is the steep cliff, 396 m high from your possible demise. I'm exaggerating, of course!! I just did not expect this after the torment of Nea Kameni. Admittedly, the view is spectacular!! So there...

Agios Stefanos, Church of the Middle Byzantine Times
Again, two choices - go back down or struggle up! I asked somebody on his way down if its worth it! He replied "Depends!". What the &*^@ does that even mean??!!!!

So I continued...huff and puff...huff and puff...who was it who said "A journey of a thousand miles begins with one small step"? He was right!!! Finally, we arrived!! If you're a history buff, this place is for you...

Ancient Thira was named after the mythical ruler of the island, Theras, and was inhabited from the 9th century BC until 726 AD. According to literature, most of the ruins  of Thira date from the Hellenistic era, but there are also extensive Roman and Byzantine remains. The history of the site is actually very interesting.

By the way, the hubby fully compensated by giving me foot massages for the whole week! :)

The beach of Perissa, probably the best beach in Santorini
Take the boat from Kamari to Perissa.  Although it won't rival our beaches in the Philippines, Perissa is, probably, the best beach in Santorini. We did not go to the Red Beach so I can't compare.  There's a daily, 10 minutes,45-minute interval boat ride from Kamari to Perissa.

The whole day here was spent frolicking on the beach and lounging in one of the nipa shades drinking mojitos and yeah, sex on the beach (sadly, just the drink :)).

(Don't) Take the Southern Santorini tour.  The tour promises to take you to the Prophet Elias Monastery for the majestic view of the island then to Megalohori to admire the traditional architecture of the village and the unique craftmanship of the local masons and to Emborio for the traditional windmills. There's also wine-tasting included. But my friendly advice? Dont part with your Euro 29 for this tour.
Part of the ruins of the prehistoric town of Akrotiri

I don't know if it's just "tourist fatigue"  that hit me, but I found the view from the monastery unmajestic (quite ordinary actually), the architecture of the village practically the same as the others (therefore, boring), the windmills, well, they're windmills. AND I'm not fond of wine so...

In my opinion, the only saving grace of this tour is a visit to the archeological site of Akrotiri. The excavations feature a well-preserved prehistoric settlements of the Aegean. The first habitation at the site dates from the Late Neolithic times (at least the 4th millenium B.C.).The archeological find boasts of elaborate drainage system and sophisticated multi-storeyed buildings with magnificent wall-paintings, furnitures and vessels.

Fira: a must-see.... and a 'blessing'. Fira, the capital of the island, is perched on the edge of an impressive cliff 260m high and offers a great panorama over the submerged volcano.Typical Santorini's achitecture - white washed house, stepped streets and blue-domed churches - accentuates the beauty of the village.
The village of Fira perched on a cliff...

Our visit to Fira was made special as we happened to be 'lost' in the circuitous alleys of the village looking for the main street and found ourselves at the Saint John the Baptist Cathedral. It is a Catholic chuch amidst a sea of Orthodox churches, where the Sunday mass was about to be celebrated. The mass was in Italian, with the homily translated in English. The experience of attending the mass in Santorini was surreal -maybe serendipity or purely God's grace at work...

Guess what?! The 2nd reading from the Book of Ephesians - Husbands, love your wives as Christ loves the Chuch- cemented my belief that we were indeed blessed to have heard this particular mass.

The vacation had to end, of course, but the wonderful memories created by this trip will forever be treasured. Yes, we spent 8 days in paradise.... Santorini is all I dream about and more!!! The amazing scenery, the delectable cuisine, the oh-so-gorgeous men (yeah, ok...ladies too!) and best of all, I was with  the only person I  want to have more Santorinis with. :)


Truly memorable Santorini moments...