Travel: Veselé Vánoce! (Christmas in Prague...)

.....you had me at hello!
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We were there in September! That was when the (in)famous kiss that would put to shame Gustav Klimt's version happened... right in the middle of Charles' Bridge! Can't help it...the City is simply enchanting... magical...

The KISS that puts to shame Klimt's version :)

Its no surprise, therefore, that we decided to spend Christmas in Prague and have a second, deeper appreciation of the city with hundred spires...(plus the fact that I do NOT wish to see another airport this year made the choice easier!:))

Christmas in Prague is a delightful experience both for the eyes and the palate. At Christmas, the whole city displays its usual grandeur enveloped with the holidays warmth (despite the cold). We loved taking a stroll in its archaic, cobbled streets and partaking of the culinary offerings of the Vanochni trh (Christmas markets) that are all over the city.

The markets flaunt a variety of local  knick knacks you'll love to bring home. But it was the display of Czech traditional gastronomic delights that made the experience more appealing. A cup of svařené víno or svařák (hot wine) to warm the body, unhealthy (but insanely delicious!) slices of the freshly-roasted old prague ham or peppered klobasa (sausages) to fill the stomach and a couple of freshly-prepared, cinammon-dashed, sugary Trdelnik for the sweet tooth - complete a meal.

And yes, what is Christmas without noche buena. While we miss nilaga, asado, kaldereta, kalamay and bibingka of home, we tried traditional Czech cuisine in our hotel's famous La Boca restaurant. The food was not exceptional but the ambiance was superb!

We had Boullabaise de La Boca and Plato Iberico - slices of Jamon Serrano, Queso Manchego (sheep cheese), chorizo de Bellota with olives, honey dew melon and tomato bruschetta - for starters. For the main meal, the hubby tried the fried Třeboň carp (we were told all Czechs have this fish in their Christmas eve dinner) and I had the roasted venison with Carlsbad dumplings and cranberry sauce. Franky, I did not enjoy my venison - I guess, its not palatable to have Rudolf for dinner especially during Christmas. :)

We truly enjoyed the Christmas experience in Prague but hey, we were still 'tourists' who needed to do some touring! And tour we did!!!

Our hotel was situated right smack the middle of Staré Město (old town) and Nové Město (you guessed it - new town). Most interesting sights are walking distances so the feet did the work (foot massages came after...)! :)

Prague is filled with interesting places that it would be difficult to show all and tell all in this blog. Nonetheless, I came up with a list of places to see and things to do - just in case you fancy a trip to Prague sometime: :)

 1. Step into history at the Old Town Square

Panoramic view of the Old Town Square

Stepping into the Old Town Square(Staroměstské náměstí) is like going back in time. The square is adorned with ancient buildings and magnificent churches each with their own stories, history and intrigues.

Astronomical Clock at the old town hall tower

The most fascinating sight for me was the Astronomical Clock situated at the southern wall of the Old Town tower. Built in 1410, the clock is the third oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still working. To this date, the clock continues to provide a full range of astronomical data. Below the clock are 12 medallions with the signs of the Zodiac.

At the strike of the hour, join the throng of people gathered in front of the tower to view the procession of the twelve apostles while the skeleton of Death tolls the bell. It is a full-minute of fascinating mechanical artistry.

The Old Town Hall tower that houses the clock was built in 1338 (completed in 1364) and is one of the most striking buildings in Prague. Severely damaged during the WW II, Gothic and Renaissance -style buildings now make up the expanded town hall.

Asymmetrical Tyn Church Spires

Another imposing structure in the square is the Gothic Church of Tyn, or The Church of Our Lady Before Tyn. The grand spires of the church are like compasses directing you towards old town.

According to Prague experience website, "the Tyn Church (Týnský Chrám) was founded in 1385, a tumultuous period when the Hussites were being slaughtered by the ruling Roman Catholics. Indeed, in time Catholic Jesuits took over the church, recasting the bell and replacing the Hussites symbolic chalice with a large figure of Mary nailed between the towers.

Although the structure is not the same, legend has it that Tyn Church gave Walt Disney the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty Castle. True or not, it is certainly an awe-inspiring sight both during the day, and even more so at night brightly lit against a dark sky. And take a close look at the two spires on the church. They are not symmetrical. They represent the masculine and  feminine sides of the world."

2. Charles Bridge: its statues and rituals

Charles Bridge, Karlův most, is the famous historic bridge named after King Charles IV, lined with 30 statues on both sides.  The bridge offers a fantastic view of the river and the city but what made the walk here more interesting are the "rituals"  that transpire.  

St John of Nepomuk and the reliefs below the statue

Touch the reliefs below the bronze statue of St. John of Nepomuk, the oldest statue created in 1683 by Matthias Rauchmüller and Jan Brokoff. St. John of Nepomuk was a priest, who refused to betray a secret, confided to him by Queen Sophia, to the king Wenceslas IV. He was tortured on the king´s demand and then thrown to the river Vltava from the Charles Bridge in 1393.Purportedly, touching the relief depicting that of the saint being thrown off the bridge brings good luck (right most). There is another relief which shows a dog and a woman with no special meaning but which is just as shiny (from rubbing). Apparently, a lot of people (us included) does not know the legend and just 'rub' on both - just in case. :)  

Talented all!

Take delight in the free (well, almost) showcase of talent on the bridge. A stroll on the bridge would eventually bring you to the talented 'artists'  who display their 'wares' to the delight of (and a few euros from) the crowd. The showcase of talents will rival the best shows. In fact, we were so awed with a violinist that we parted with Euro 12 to buy his self-titled album.



Bring your own locks and remember to throw away the keys. Prague is definitely a romantic place. Thus, its no wonder that 'lovelocks' litter probably every available railing along the Charles' bridge and canals in the city.  The 'locking' rite obviously symbolizes eternal and faithful love. Once locked on fences, railings or bridges, lovers are supposed to throw away the key in a romantic gesture of their everlasting commitment to each other - 'locked together through time'. NO, we didn't do it - the hubby says its not necessary (this guy is a spoilsport sometimes). :) And anyways, I think the locks are being removed (of course!!)...compare the photo of the same lovelock location in September (lower left) and then again in December (lower right).

Lovelocks all over Prague - symbol of eternal love?

3. Pay tribute to freedom of expression on the Lennon Wall

The Lennon Wall used to be a platform where young Czechs, prior to 1989 when communism rules, express their grievances, paying tribute to John Lennon and his ideas of peace and freedom. It may not anymore reflect the idealism it used to represent (there are several touristy messages like "Jack was here...") and has definitely evolved over the years, but its still worth seeing and reflecting on the bits and pieces of literature written there. I particularly like this one..."Life is what happens to you when you are busy making other plans..."

Enjoy the 'writings on the wall!"

4. Visit Prague's churches and castles (and synagogues, too!)

Prague won't be known as the "City of a Hundred Spires" for nothing. Its skyline is literally dominated by spires from churches, castles and cathedrals.

Most notable structure which spires are seen across the city's landscape is that of the Hradcany Castle. The castle is formerly the residence of the kings of Bohemia and is now the official residence of the president of the Czech Republic. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the Prague Castle is the largest coherent ancient castle complex in the world, with an area of almost 70,000 m².

The Palace Complex

More than the spires, the churches and cathedrals offer a deeper religious meaning. For a Roman Catholic such as myself, a visit to Prague is not complete without paying respects to the Infant Jesus of Prague at the Chuch of our Lady of Victorious. I offered a prayer for a loved one beseeching a blessing for her to the Santo Nino de Praga. The Loreta, located at the castle complex,  is an important Marian pilgrimage destination.

The Church of our Lady Victorious, the Infant Jesus of Pargue, the St. Nicholas Church and the Loreta.

One important structure in the Castle complex is the Gothic Masterpiece, St. Vitus Cathedral, the seat of the Archbishop of Prague. Aside from being the largest and most important spiritual cathedral in Prague, St Vitus had overseen the coronations of Czech kings and queens. The Royal Mausoleum, in front of the high altar, are the tombs of royalties and saints. One important feature of the Cathedral is the Chapel of St. Wenceslas.

The St. Vitus Cathedral

5. And lastly, stroll along the New Town

Don't be misled, the New Town is not exactly 'new' - it was founded by Charles IV in 1348 and its the  largest and the youngest of the five independent towns of Prague.

New Town boasts of intriguing history but has modern structures. Wenceslas Square is the bustling center teeming with grand hotels, commercial establishments and entertainment possibilities. The National Museum and the statue of Saint Wencelas are imposing structures that face the square.

Stroll along the New Town

Prague offers a symphony of history and elegance anywhere and everywhere you look. So, one important tip: DON'T RUSH! Enjoy the magnificence of the sights and sounds around you. Bask in the city's history, myths and legends!

There's truth to what Franz Kafka said  "Prague never lets you go... this dear little mother has sharp claws." And as I said "Prague had me at hello!" :)

By the way, the historic centre of Prague is a UNESCO World Heritage Site...there you go! :)

12-12-12: A very special post....

....our wedding was 14 years ago but the celebration continues to this day.

I am writing this en route to Nha Trang City.  12 December 1998, exactly 14 years ago, we took the plunge, so to speak.  And what a plunge it has been since!!!
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12:00 am, 12 December 2012:  

Happy anniversary, loves! Thank you for 14 years!

For us, it was never a roller-coaster ride....it was more of a leisurely drive! Sure, there are the occasional bumps in the road but our marriage is more of a comfortable cruise along a newly-paved road. Thank you for this!


Thank you for loving me despite my imperfections! Thank you for saying that I am still the sexiest for you! Thank you for bearing with my nightly snores! Thank you for cleaning up my mess! Thank you for the everyday patience! Thank you for just listening to me when I rant! Thank you for giving me foot massages even if your hand hurts, thank you for the lovely flowers...

More than these, thank you for understanding - for saying that I am not less of a woman just because I did not bear us a child, for loving me in my weakest moment, for celebrating with me all my achievements, for holding my hand when I was sick and frail, for crying with me when I felt sad, thank you for being faithful and kind....

Thanking the Lord for another good year...

 12-12-12: the 12th day of the 12thmonth of the 12th year -  the last time, at least for another century, that the elements of the date are identical....for the Mayans, the end of times as we know it...

12-12-12: the 2nd cycle of our seven-year itch, our 14th wedding anniversary, the start of yet another blissful year...

Although, we won't be together (again!) on this day, I look forward to celebrating it "properly"  when I come home... :)

I love you! <3

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And the passing years will show

that you will always grow ever more beautiful....

in my eyes....

Travel: Italian moments (over again!)

....as our UNIDO expert said "It's the Italian charm...".....
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Somehow I managed to convince the husband to join me in our UNIDO study visit to Italy. I have been away for several missions and thought this would be an opportunity for us both to be together and for him to have an insight on the rigorous requirements of my job considering it is just a study tour.

We visited the facilities of Ansaldo Caldaie (a boiler manufacturer) at Gioia del Colle, Centrale Enel Torrevaldaliga Nord power plant and CRA-ING biomass boiler research facility. Overall, it was an interesting and very educational visit in relation to the regional fossil fuel-fired utilities and industrial boiler project.

UNIDO study tour participants at the Ansaldo Caldaie facilities in Bari, Italy

A visit to Italy would not be complete without doing the usual rounds of its sights. So, when work ended, pleasure began.

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At the St Peter's Square...

Just a bit of Rome, this time.  While we have been in Rome before (thrice even), the rich heritage of the city never fails to amaze and impress every time. First thing on the list was a visit to the St. Peter's Basilica, touted to be one of the holiest Catholic sites situated in the 44-hectare sovereign territory of the Vatican. Contrary to popular belief, the basilica is not the mother church of Roman Catholicism but I can vouch that all Catholics have the pilgrimage to this place in their bucket list.

Colosseo and the Arco di Constantino

Now, on to another iconic symbol of Imperial Rome - the Colosseo. This Flavian amphitheatre had seen the goriest battles between men and beasts.Today, however, the only battle you will see is between the quasi-gladiators outside the Colosseum and the unknowing tourists who had to part with Euro20 after having a photo taken with them. Somehow, I wished Russel Crowe will make his appearance in his gladiator suit. :)

We went through the usual touristy things to see and do - Fontana de Trevi,  Fora Romana, Vitorrio Emanuele II monument , gelato, pizza, pasta...not with much zest and details as before, but still with a great deal of  fascination.

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But what made this Italy visit a little more special, at least for me,  is a visit to two of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites outside of Rome.  I looovvvee Heritage Sites. As I've always mentioned, my dream is to see as many of these sites in my lifetime.

Drenched in Tivoli. With the study tour over, our Italian expert decided to bring the group to the nearest interesting place outside Rome - the town of Tivoli. Tivoli is home to two World Heritage Sites - Villa Adriana and Villa d' Este. 

Villa Adrian was created as a retreat by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD and is a massive complex of 30 buildings. The miniature model of the villa will tell you that one day is not enough to explore and commune with the place.

Unfortunately, the weather, was not so cooperative. While in Villa Adriana, a heavy downpour made it impossible to see the whole historical complex. I called it literally soaked in history. Braving the rains, we manage to see a few sites and take some souvenir shots.

With the heavy rains, Villa d'Este is out the question. Sigh! :(

We had another day to spare and were debating where to go - there's just too many interesting sights and too little time. From our wish list, our Italian experts and our 'almost' Italian cousins recommended the city of Siena - another heritage site!

A Taste of Tuscany.  Siena is a medieval city  in the Tuscan region of Italy. Tuscany is the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and is famous for its wine. For me, it is a heritage site haven - six of them!!! The historic centre of Florence (check!), the square of the Cathedral of Pisa (check!), Val d' Orcia, historical centre of San Gimignano and the historical Center of Siena (now, check!!).

Perhaps the most famous of Siena's attraction is the Piazza del Campo, the town's main square where the infamous horse race, Palio, is held annually. The piazza  features the Palazzo Publicco (town hall) with the towering Torre del Mangia, from the top of which supposedly, a picturesque panorama of the Sienese countryside maybe viewed. I said supposedly because I refused to climb the 400-step to the top! My mantra these days - NO.MORE.CLIMBING!!!

Piazza del Campo, or 'il Campo, where Palio , the most infamous horse race in the world, is held

Another distinct attraction is the Cattedrale dell' Assunta (Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption) which rises majestic on the Duomo Square.

According to Wikipedia, the cathedral itself was originally designed and completed between 1215 and 1263 and has the form of a Latin cross with a slightly projecting transept, a dome and a bell tower. The exterior and interior are constructed of white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes, with addition of red marble on the façade. Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena, etiologically, inked to black and white horses of the legendary city's founders, Senius and Aschius.

There's so much to see inside and outside the Cathedral. The facade is one of the most impressive features in Sienna. It showcases impressive artistry in tiniest details. The first sight would leave you breathless. Like, wow!!!

I have seen several magnificent cathedrals, churches, abbeys and basilicas but what I've seen inside impressed me to the core. The altar, the nave, the pulpit , the dome - my limited vocabulary is not sufficient to do justice to my description of these. The visual impact is just too stunning!

The inlaid marble mosaic floor, depicting scenes from the Old Testament, allegories and virtues,  is one of the most ornate of its kind in Italy.

Adjoining the cathedral is the Piccolomini library, housing precious illuminated choir books and frescoes painted by the Umbrian Bernardino di Betto, called Pinturicchio. 

Amazing collection of wonders inside the Cathedral

What we failed to see (which I will forever regret) is the Basilica of San Domenico. Having been educated in a Dominican University, the University of Santo Tomas, this is a cardinal sin. It should have been on top of my list on this visit to Sienna. And yes, its "home"  to Saint Catherine of Siena - from whom my youngest sister was, obviously,  named after. It could have been the perfect place to beseech guidance and blessings for her.  Tssskkk!  I, however, take this as a reason to go back - soon! :)

Sights and delights of Siena

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Overall, this trip has been a respite to the body and  nourishment to both the mind and spirit. Although it was marred by another unpleasant experience, I believe that Italy has so much more to offer, so much more secrets waiting to be uncovered.... so as they say in the local parlance - Arrivederci, Italia!!!