Travel: Veselé Vánoce! (Christmas in Prague...)

.....you had me at hello!
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We were there in September! That was when the (in)famous kiss that would put to shame Gustav Klimt's version happened... right in the middle of Charles' Bridge! Can't help it...the City is simply enchanting... magical...

The KISS that puts to shame Klimt's version :)

Its no surprise, therefore, that we decided to spend Christmas in Prague and have a second, deeper appreciation of the city with hundred spires...(plus the fact that I do NOT wish to see another airport this year made the choice easier!:))

Christmas in Prague is a delightful experience both for the eyes and the palate. At Christmas, the whole city displays its usual grandeur enveloped with the holidays warmth (despite the cold). We loved taking a stroll in its archaic, cobbled streets and partaking of the culinary offerings of the Vanochni trh (Christmas markets) that are all over the city.

The markets flaunt a variety of local  knick knacks you'll love to bring home. But it was the display of Czech traditional gastronomic delights that made the experience more appealing. A cup of svařené víno or svařák (hot wine) to warm the body, unhealthy (but insanely delicious!) slices of the freshly-roasted old prague ham or peppered klobasa (sausages) to fill the stomach and a couple of freshly-prepared, cinammon-dashed, sugary Trdelnik for the sweet tooth - complete a meal.

And yes, what is Christmas without noche buena. While we miss nilaga, asado, kaldereta, kalamay and bibingka of home, we tried traditional Czech cuisine in our hotel's famous La Boca restaurant. The food was not exceptional but the ambiance was superb!

We had Boullabaise de La Boca and Plato Iberico - slices of Jamon Serrano, Queso Manchego (sheep cheese), chorizo de Bellota with olives, honey dew melon and tomato bruschetta - for starters. For the main meal, the hubby tried the fried Třeboň carp (we were told all Czechs have this fish in their Christmas eve dinner) and I had the roasted venison with Carlsbad dumplings and cranberry sauce. Franky, I did not enjoy my venison - I guess, its not palatable to have Rudolf for dinner especially during Christmas. :)

We truly enjoyed the Christmas experience in Prague but hey, we were still 'tourists' who needed to do some touring! And tour we did!!!

Our hotel was situated right smack the middle of Staré Město (old town) and Nové Město (you guessed it - new town). Most interesting sights are walking distances so the feet did the work (foot massages came after...)! :)

Prague is filled with interesting places that it would be difficult to show all and tell all in this blog. Nonetheless, I came up with a list of places to see and things to do - just in case you fancy a trip to Prague sometime: :)

 1. Step into history at the Old Town Square

Panoramic view of the Old Town Square

Stepping into the Old Town Square(Staroměstské náměstí) is like going back in time. The square is adorned with ancient buildings and magnificent churches each with their own stories, history and intrigues.

Astronomical Clock at the old town hall tower

The most fascinating sight for me was the Astronomical Clock situated at the southern wall of the Old Town tower. Built in 1410, the clock is the third oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still working. To this date, the clock continues to provide a full range of astronomical data. Below the clock are 12 medallions with the signs of the Zodiac.

At the strike of the hour, join the throng of people gathered in front of the tower to view the procession of the twelve apostles while the skeleton of Death tolls the bell. It is a full-minute of fascinating mechanical artistry.

The Old Town Hall tower that houses the clock was built in 1338 (completed in 1364) and is one of the most striking buildings in Prague. Severely damaged during the WW II, Gothic and Renaissance -style buildings now make up the expanded town hall.

Asymmetrical Tyn Church Spires

Another imposing structure in the square is the Gothic Church of Tyn, or The Church of Our Lady Before Tyn. The grand spires of the church are like compasses directing you towards old town.

According to Prague experience website, "the Tyn Church (Týnský Chrám) was founded in 1385, a tumultuous period when the Hussites were being slaughtered by the ruling Roman Catholics. Indeed, in time Catholic Jesuits took over the church, recasting the bell and replacing the Hussites symbolic chalice with a large figure of Mary nailed between the towers.

Although the structure is not the same, legend has it that Tyn Church gave Walt Disney the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty Castle. True or not, it is certainly an awe-inspiring sight both during the day, and even more so at night brightly lit against a dark sky. And take a close look at the two spires on the church. They are not symmetrical. They represent the masculine and  feminine sides of the world."

2. Charles Bridge: its statues and rituals

Charles Bridge, Karlův most, is the famous historic bridge named after King Charles IV, lined with 30 statues on both sides.  The bridge offers a fantastic view of the river and the city but what made the walk here more interesting are the "rituals"  that transpire.  

St John of Nepomuk and the reliefs below the statue

Touch the reliefs below the bronze statue of St. John of Nepomuk, the oldest statue created in 1683 by Matthias Rauchmüller and Jan Brokoff. St. John of Nepomuk was a priest, who refused to betray a secret, confided to him by Queen Sophia, to the king Wenceslas IV. He was tortured on the king´s demand and then thrown to the river Vltava from the Charles Bridge in 1393.Purportedly, touching the relief depicting that of the saint being thrown off the bridge brings good luck (right most). There is another relief which shows a dog and a woman with no special meaning but which is just as shiny (from rubbing). Apparently, a lot of people (us included) does not know the legend and just 'rub' on both - just in case. :)  

Talented all!

Take delight in the free (well, almost) showcase of talent on the bridge. A stroll on the bridge would eventually bring you to the talented 'artists'  who display their 'wares' to the delight of (and a few euros from) the crowd. The showcase of talents will rival the best shows. In fact, we were so awed with a violinist that we parted with Euro 12 to buy his self-titled album.



Bring your own locks and remember to throw away the keys. Prague is definitely a romantic place. Thus, its no wonder that 'lovelocks' litter probably every available railing along the Charles' bridge and canals in the city.  The 'locking' rite obviously symbolizes eternal and faithful love. Once locked on fences, railings or bridges, lovers are supposed to throw away the key in a romantic gesture of their everlasting commitment to each other - 'locked together through time'. NO, we didn't do it - the hubby says its not necessary (this guy is a spoilsport sometimes). :) And anyways, I think the locks are being removed (of course!!)...compare the photo of the same lovelock location in September (lower left) and then again in December (lower right).

Lovelocks all over Prague - symbol of eternal love?

3. Pay tribute to freedom of expression on the Lennon Wall

The Lennon Wall used to be a platform where young Czechs, prior to 1989 when communism rules, express their grievances, paying tribute to John Lennon and his ideas of peace and freedom. It may not anymore reflect the idealism it used to represent (there are several touristy messages like "Jack was here...") and has definitely evolved over the years, but its still worth seeing and reflecting on the bits and pieces of literature written there. I particularly like this one..."Life is what happens to you when you are busy making other plans..."

Enjoy the 'writings on the wall!"

4. Visit Prague's churches and castles (and synagogues, too!)

Prague won't be known as the "City of a Hundred Spires" for nothing. Its skyline is literally dominated by spires from churches, castles and cathedrals.

Most notable structure which spires are seen across the city's landscape is that of the Hradcany Castle. The castle is formerly the residence of the kings of Bohemia and is now the official residence of the president of the Czech Republic. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the Prague Castle is the largest coherent ancient castle complex in the world, with an area of almost 70,000 m².

The Palace Complex

More than the spires, the churches and cathedrals offer a deeper religious meaning. For a Roman Catholic such as myself, a visit to Prague is not complete without paying respects to the Infant Jesus of Prague at the Chuch of our Lady of Victorious. I offered a prayer for a loved one beseeching a blessing for her to the Santo Nino de Praga. The Loreta, located at the castle complex,  is an important Marian pilgrimage destination.

The Church of our Lady Victorious, the Infant Jesus of Pargue, the St. Nicholas Church and the Loreta.

One important structure in the Castle complex is the Gothic Masterpiece, St. Vitus Cathedral, the seat of the Archbishop of Prague. Aside from being the largest and most important spiritual cathedral in Prague, St Vitus had overseen the coronations of Czech kings and queens. The Royal Mausoleum, in front of the high altar, are the tombs of royalties and saints. One important feature of the Cathedral is the Chapel of St. Wenceslas.

The St. Vitus Cathedral

5. And lastly, stroll along the New Town

Don't be misled, the New Town is not exactly 'new' - it was founded by Charles IV in 1348 and its the  largest and the youngest of the five independent towns of Prague.

New Town boasts of intriguing history but has modern structures. Wenceslas Square is the bustling center teeming with grand hotels, commercial establishments and entertainment possibilities. The National Museum and the statue of Saint Wencelas are imposing structures that face the square.

Stroll along the New Town

Prague offers a symphony of history and elegance anywhere and everywhere you look. So, one important tip: DON'T RUSH! Enjoy the magnificence of the sights and sounds around you. Bask in the city's history, myths and legends!

There's truth to what Franz Kafka said  "Prague never lets you go... this dear little mother has sharp claws." And as I said "Prague had me at hello!" :)

By the way, the historic centre of Prague is a UNESCO World Heritage Site...there you go! :)